The Strip House franchise is taking the nation by storm and I recently dined at their Palm Beach Gardens location.

Located cheek-to-jowl next to other chain restaurants, it becomes clear as soon as you walk through the door that dining will be a whole different ballgame at the Strip House. The décor, created by designer David Rockwell (who also designed the New York W Hotels) is a throw-back to the 1920s with its red leather banquettes, crimson-flocked wallpaper and black & white stills of women photographed by Studio Manasse in early 1900s Vienna.

The menu is a throw-back as well, created with no thought at all given to cholesterol or calorie counts. Thank goodness. It’s comprised of comfort foods of the type I imagine were favored by the original Rat Pack members, who smoked, drank and ate like there was no tomorrow and no warnings about triglyceride levels  – Maine lobster bisque, rack of lamb, veal t-bone, steak, steak, steak, garlic herb French fries, sautéed green beans with garlic and the 24 Layer Chocolate Cake for dessert.

My guest and I both had the clams casino appetizer, which was served on a bed of sea salt. Tender and sweet, the clams were topped by smoked bacon and herb butter. For dinner, my guest chose the strip steak and truffle creamed spinach, while I took my life in my hands and ordered the filet mignon topped with foie gras, the crisp goose fat potatoes and cardiac paddles.

Man, oh, man you gotta dig this crazy food. I could almost hear Gene Krupa on the drums as I tasted my first mouthful of medium rare steak coupled with creamy duck liver. This was prime steak, done right and served sizzling hot. The potatoes, which defy description, have to be tasted to be believed. Order them and share them – it’s the only way to avoid a coronary.

Needless to say, neither one of us had any room left for the 24 layer chocolate cake, more’s the pity, so I’ll just have to use that as an excuse to return to the Strip House. As if I needed an excuse.

I suppose you could dine at the Strip House and demonstrate restraint by ordering one of their fish entrees and, say, the steamed broccoli, but really, why would you? Maxim Magazine has voted the Strip House one of the Top Ten Steakhouses in America, while GQ Magazine rates it as being one of America’s Greatest Steakhouses. Yeah, yeah, these are both men’s magazines, but we ladies enjoy a steak, too. 

Located at the Gardens at 1701 Lake Victoria Gardens, Palm Beach Gardens, Phone: 561-296-4900.