Some think the Keys are all about underwater exploits, but if you stay topside you'll find plenty of intriguing places tied to nature, history and adventure. On one family trip, we learned about Keys marine life and heritage without getting our feet the least bit wet. We watched leaping dolphins, acted like pirates and explored what's underwater - all while in dry dock.

We were staying in the Middle Keys around Marathon at Hawk's Cay Resort, where kids love the treehouse, putting green, lagoon beach and dolphin observation and interaction activities through Dolphin Connection, next door.

Nearby, inside the natural history and children's museums at Crane Point Hammock, an aquarium room makes you feel 10 feet below and a recreated pirate ship comes complete with costumes and treasure. Nature trails lead to their own treasures, including a bird hospital and historic site. Stop to eat picnic-table casual at Herbie's. For another taste of history, take the train to Pigeon Key, an erstwhile workers' village during the circa-1905 building of the railroad.

The Keys line up a string of landlubber fun from northern extreme to Southernmost Point. I've sort of started you out in the middle of the show here, so let's rerun and get back to Key Largo, the first community you reach from the mainland. It boasts John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. Though famous for its snorkeling, the partially underwater park gives equal opportunity on land. Peer into a 30,000-gallon saltwater aquarium, hike through mangroves, enjoy a picnic on the beach, even set up camp. For something less roughing-it, check out Key Largo Marriott Beach Resort, which offers a super kids program. Eat with the locals at Alabama Jack's on Card Sound at the island's hidden northern end, where there's clogging on weekends.
Plan an early morning or late afternoon visit to National Key Deer Refuge if you want to spy the endearingly tiny white-tailed deer that seek shelter there.

At Islamorada, between Key Largo and Marathon, Theater of the Sea is the big attraction for marine animal shows, interaction and more. The whole family will like a shop-stop at the mammoth World Wide Sportsman store, with a Hemingway-esque boat and aquarium inside. Enjoy a fresh seafood meal there at the Islamorada Fish Company. For accommodations, Cheeca Lodge has a load of stuff for kids to do in and out of the water, including environmental programs.

South of Marathon, the drive over breathtaking Seven Mile Bridge to the Lower Keys is excitement enough for little ones. Stop at Bahia Honda State Park to play on the beach, bike or take a hike. Rent a cabin (reserve a year in advance) or pitch a tent for the night. Plan an early morning or late afternoon visit to National Key Deer Refuge if you want to spy the endearingly tiny white-tailed deer that seek shelter there. Drive through, stop at the Blue Hole to spy gators, and hit the nature trails by foot. Or rent a bike in Big Pine Key for exploring. Mangrove Mama's to the south on Sugarloaf Key makes a good filling station for appetites small and large. Leave room for key lime pie.

Key West ends this land-bound journey with a bang in Old Town. Get in the proper renegade spirit at the new Pirate Soul Museum, which claims the world's largest collection of pirate artifacts - weapons, treasure and an exhibit illuminating the occupational hazards of the pirate's life (lest your little ones become overly awed by the promise of treasure). There's more about Key West 's colorful (and sometimes off-color) past and opportunistic bygone characters at Mel Fisher's Maritime Museum, Wreckers Museum and Shipwreck Historeum.

For calmer pursuits, visit the fish, turtles and sharks at Key West Aquarium and the glass-encased gardens at Key West Butterfly & Nature Conservatory. Near the Conservatory, witness the wet, seafaring world in action over lunch on terra firma at open-air Half Shell Raw Bar. Don't miss sunset at Mallory Square, where fire-eaters, human statues, musicians and others will so astound the kids they'll forget to watch the sinking sun.

Several hotels lie within walking distance of Mallory Square. Hyatt Key West is a good choice. Like most of what you discover in the Keys, it may be well grounded, but it has a strong link to the sea.